The Compass

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Our honeymoon has been an interesting sampler of some of the many ways to travel, from the full package/bed and board/tour guides and transport, to the let’s-just-go-there-and-see-what-happens style. For this next adventure, we were committing ourselves to 10 days of a very unique blend of these two extremes. On the one hand, we knew where…

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Moonrise

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It wouldn’t be a honeymoon without at least one magical moonrise, right? We arrived on the island of Santorini (Thira), Greece, in the early evening and were almost done with dinner on the upper terrace at our hotel, when Karel spotted a great, red disk peeping above the horizon. The Mediterranean was glassy smooth, and…

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The Good, The Bad, And The Ugly (Not Necessarily In That Order)

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The Amalfi Coast was one of my favorite places of our spectacular trip around the world. Set off walking in any direction, and an adventure of discovery awaits you, with big views of the Mediterranean Sea, mountains, and cliffs, contrasting with an intimate, enchanted world of orchards and gardens, ancient churches, old stone houses, and…

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The Four-Dimensional World

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A clatter of hooves draws me to the balcony. What? Where? From my perch I can see half of the village of Pontone above and below me. I spot the horse just across a gully, down a bit from me, standing next to a parked van at the end of the single road. A man…

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Part Of The Herd

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We finally found out where all the tourists have gone. They’re in Rome; legions of them lining up around the Colosseum, mobs and globs clogging the Spanish Steps, masses of chatterboxes disturbing the sanctity of the Sistine Chapel. We were actually in Rome twice, with the Amalfi Coast sandwiched in-between, and we used our time…

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